Gadwal
A cotton body with a silk border and pallu, woven as two textiles that meet at a single, deliberately visible join.
A cotton body with a silk border and pallu, woven as two textiles that meet at a single, deliberately visible join. The interlock is left plain to see, not hidden, because the two materials were never meant to pretend to be one.
The anatomy of a saree
Border. Woven along both edges. In some traditions it is woven separately and locked into the body by hand.
Pallu. The end that falls over the shoulder, and where a weaver spends the most time. Often finished with a fine joining line.
Body. Plain, checked or scattered with small buttis. The weight of the body decides how the saree pleats.
Three ways to tell a real one
Find the join
The cotton body and silk border are interlocked by hand, and the join shows as a fine zigzag.
Feel two textures
Cotton in the body, silk at the border and pallu. You should feel the change under your fingers.
Check the pallu
The silk pallu is often joined separately. Look for its line across the width.
Pieces in this weave
Caring for it
Dry clean only
The first few times especially, so the colour sets.
Wrap it in muslin
Never plastic. Silk needs to breathe.
Refold it
Every few months, along new lines, so the zari does not crack.
Perfume first
Then the saree. Spray dulls zari.
