Korvai Kanjivaram

Body and border are woven separately, then interlocked by hand where they meet: a join strong enough that the two halves of the cloth will outlast each other before they come apart.

Woven inKanchipuram
ClothMulberry silk
SignatureThe korvai border
Worn forWeddings, heirlooms
How it is made

Body and border are woven separately, then interlocked by hand where they meet: a join strong enough that the two halves of the cloth will outlast each other before they come apart. The border is often a different, richer colour from the body for exactly this reason. It was never going to be the same piece of thread.

Reading the cloth

The anatomy of a saree

BLOUSE PIECE BODY · BUTTIS BORDER THE JOIN PALLU

Border. Woven along both edges. In some traditions it is woven separately and locked into the body by hand.

Pallu. The end that falls over the shoulder, and where a weaver spends the most time. Often finished with a fine joining line.

Body. Plain, checked or scattered with small buttis. The weight of the body decides how the saree pleats.

Before you buy one anywhere

Three ways to tell a real one

Look inside the zari

Real zari is silver-coated thread wound on silk. Where a thread is worn or cut, a silk core shows through.

Turn it over

Find where border meets body on the reverse. A korvai interlock looks woven, not stitched.

Feel the weight

A Kanjivaram is heavy and holds a fold. A light, slippery cloth is something else.

Pieces in this weave

See them all

Caring for it

Dry clean only

The first few times especially, so the colour sets.

Wrap it in muslin

Never plastic. Silk needs to breathe.

Refold it

Every few months, along new lines, so the zari does not crack.

Perfume first

Then the saree. Spray dulls zari.

More on care