Sambalpuri & Odisha Silks

Sambalpuri silk is ikat with its own vocabulary: conch, wheel and flower motifs, temple borders, and patterns tied into the thread before weaving.

ClothMulberry silk
SignatureIkat motifs and temple borders
MotifsConch, wheel, flower
Worn forFestivals, weddings
How it is made

Sambalpuri silk is ikat with its own vocabulary: conch, wheel and flower motifs, temple borders, and patterns tied into the thread before weaving. Each colour is bound and dyed separately, so a single saree can pass through the dye bath many times before it reaches the loom.

Reading the cloth

The anatomy of a saree

BLOUSE PIECE BODY · BUTTIS BORDER THE JOIN PALLU

Border. Woven along both edges. In some traditions it is woven separately and locked into the body by hand.

Pallu. The end that falls over the shoulder, and where a weaver spends the most time. Often finished with a fine joining line.

Body. Plain, checked or scattered with small buttis. The weight of the body decides how the saree pleats.

Before you buy one anywhere

Three ways to tell a real one

Look at the motifs

Conch, wheel and flower shapes with soft ikat edges.

Turn it over

The design shows on both faces, because it was dyed into the yarn.

Check the border

Temple borders are woven in, not printed.

Pieces in this weave

See them all

Caring for it

Dry clean only

The first few times especially, so the colour sets.

Wrap it in muslin

Never plastic. Silk needs to breathe.

Refold it

Every few months, along new lines, so the zari does not crack.

Perfume first

Then the saree. Spray dulls zari.

More on care